Motorcycle armor is the cheapest protection upgrade most riders never make. Plenty of jackets ship with basic shoulder and elbow inserts and an empty back pocket, and the difference between that and a properly rated setup comes down to a few numbers on a label most people never read.
This guide explains what those numbers mean, how CE Level 1 and Level 2 differ for limbs, backs and chests, what the common materials actually do, and how to upgrade the armor in a jacket you already own. It is based on the published standards and manufacturer information. GothRider did not crash-test anything, and you should be wary of any "best armor" list that claims lab results without naming a lab.
What does CE-certified armor actually mean?
CE-certified motorcycle armor has been tested to a European standard in the EN 1621 family, which measures how much force passes through the protector when it is hit. Lower transmitted force means better protection.
The family has four parts. According to SATRA, one of the test houses that certifies this gear, EN 1621-1 covers limb protectors for shoulders, elbows, hips and knees, EN 1621-2 covers back protectors, EN 1621-3 covers chest protectors, and EN 1621-4 covers inflatable protectors, meaning airbags. Each part has two performance levels, and Level 2 is always the stricter one.
The basic test is brutal and simple. For limb armor, a 5 kg mass delivering 50 joules of energy is dropped onto the protector sitting on an anvil, and a load cell underneath records the peak force that gets through, as described by Wikipedia's summary of the standard and SportsBikeShop's breakdown of CE markings. Think of it as a hammer blow with a scale under your elbow.
What is the difference between CE Level 1 and Level 2?
Level 2 armor must let through much less force than Level 1, about half as much in the case of back protectors. The exact thresholds depend on which body part the protector is built for.
For limb armor under EN 1621-1, SATRA and SportsBikeShop give these pass marks:
- Level 1: the average transmitted force must stay below 35 kN, with no single strike above 50 kN.
- Level 2: the average must be 20 kN or less, with no single strike above 30 kN.
For back protectors under EN 1621-2, the numbers are much tighter, because your spine is less forgiving than your elbow:
- Level 1: average below 18 kN, no single strike above 24 kN.
- Level 2: average below 9 kN, no single strike above 12 kN.
Keep expectations realistic. Wikipedia's summary notes that back protectors cannot protect against most spinal injuries. They are built to soften blunt impacts, which is worth having, but they are not a force field.
You'll see older retailer pages quoting 18 kN and 9 kN for limb armor too. Those figures belong to the back protector standard, so treat any page that mixes them up as a sign it was written by someone who never opened the standard.
What do T+, T- and the other markings on armor mean?
The markings tell you which optional tests a protector passed on top of the basic impact test. The most useful ones cover hot and cold performance.
SportsBikeShop explains that limb armor must also pass a mandatory wet test after soaking conditions. T+ means the protector passed an optional hot test after conditioning at 40°C, and T- means it passed an optional cold test. If you ride Quebec shoulder seasons, when a September morning can start near freezing and end hot, T- is worth looking for, since some materials stiffen in the cold.
How do chest protectors and airbags fit in?
Chest protectors have their own standard, EN 1621-3, and airbags have EN 1621-4. Both use the same two-level idea.
SATRA describes EN 1621-3 as covering divided and full chest protectors. Level 1 protectors only have to meet the force transmission requirements, while Level 2 protectors must also pass a force distribution test, which favors stiffer designs that spread an impact over a wider area. Chest protection is standard kit for many off-road riders, and some road riders add it too.
Airbag vests and jackets are a different technology altogether. If you're weighing one, read our guide to motorcycle airbag jackets before deciding whether inflation beats foam for your riding.
What are D3O, SAS-TEC and Knox armor made of?
Most modern armor uses soft, flexible materials that resist sudden impacts much harder than slow pressure. The brand names describe different recipes for that same basic idea.
- D3O: the company describes its products as soft, flexible, rate-sensitive materials in its FAQ. Day to day, the insert bends with you. Under a sudden blow, it resists.
- SAS-TEC: a viscoelastic foam that Wikipedia describes as a progressive reactive armor, soft and body-conforming at rest and rigid on impact.
- Knox: Knox's Micro-Lock back protectors are described by retailers like SportsBikeShop as soft to the touch and locking on impact to reduce the energy passed to your back.
- Plain foam and hard shells: Wikipedia notes that hard foams absorb energy by breaking down, so they protect for one impact and then need replacing. Hard plastic shells resist abrasion and puncture but need a foam layer underneath to manage the shock.
The material matters less than the certification level and the fit. A Level 2 insert that slides down to your forearm in a crash is worth less than a Level 1 insert that stays on the bone.
Does armor level have anything to do with the jacket's AA or AAA rating?
No. The armor's EN 1621 level and the garment's EN 17092 class are separate ratings, and a jacket can carry any combination of the two.
EN 17092 rates the whole garment for abrasion, seam strength and other properties. According to SATRA's EN 17092 summary, Class AAA and AA garments must include elbow, shoulder, knee and hip protectors, Class A requires elbow, shoulder and knee with hips optional, Class B has no impact protectors at all, and Class C is a holder for impact protectors with no minimum abrasion protection. A Class AAA jacket can still ship with Level 1 elbows. Read both labels.
How do you upgrade the armor in your jacket?
Most riders can upgrade by swapping limb inserts to Level 2 and filling the empty back pocket with a certified back protector. It is a cheap, satisfying hour of work.
- Check what you have. Pull out each insert and read its label. Look for the EN 1621 part number, the level, and any T+ or T- marks. No label means you should assume it is comfort padding, not certified armor.
- Measure the pockets. Inserts have to fill the pocket without folding or rattling around. Many brands make their own inserts for their own jackets, so the jacket maker's replacement is the easiest fit. Universal inserts work if the shape and size match.
- Fill the back pocket first. Many jackets ship with a foam pad or nothing in the back. A certified EN 1621-2 insert is the biggest single upgrade for most riders. SATRA notes that back protectors come in full back, central back and lower back types, so check which one your pocket is designed for.
- Consider a strap-on back protector. If your jacket's pocket is too small, a harness-style protector worn under the jacket gives fuller coverage. These are sized by length, for example the Knox Micro-Lock Air comes in 40 cm and 50 cm sizes, so measure your back from waist to shoulder and use the maker's chart.
- Check it stays put. Put the jacket on, get into your riding position on the bike and make sure the elbow armor sits on the elbow and the shoulder armor on the shoulder. Armor that only lines up when you're standing in the store mirror does nothing for you in a slide.
When should you replace motorcycle armor?
Replace any armor that took a hard hit in a crash, any insert that is cracked, crumbling or permanently compressed, and any plain foam pad that has done its job once.
Wikipedia notes that hard foams protect for a single impact because they work by breaking down. Rate-sensitive materials work differently, but a crash can still damage any insert in ways you can't see, so follow the manufacturer's guidance and replace when in doubt. For everyday care, D3O recommends removing protectors before washing the garment and wiping them with a damp cloth, and storing them somewhere dry and away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.
Which armor should you prioritize?
Back and limb armor at Level 2 is the sensible target for most road riders, with chest protection added if you ride off-road or simply want it.
- Commuters and city riders: Level 2 elbow and shoulder inserts plus a Level 2 back insert in the jacket pocket. Add knee armor in your pants or riding jeans.
- Sport and track riders: Level 2 everywhere, a full-length back protector and, ideally, chest protection.
- Adventure and off-road riders: a chest and back protector combination, since roost, rocks and handlebars all aim for your torso.
- Riders in cold weather: look for T- marked inserts so the armor doesn't stiffen on frosty mornings.
Armor is only one layer of a protective setup. Read our explainer on motorcycle protective gear, our comparison of Sidi and Alpinestars boots, and our guide to helmet safety ratings, because your head and feet need protecting too.
Editor's note: this article was rewritten in October 2026. An earlier version described product tests GothRider Magazine never ran. Ratings and specifications now come from the manufacturers and independent testing bodies linked above.
