Your hands hit the ground first. It's not a theory, it's a reflex: you go down, your arms shoot out, and your palms become landing gear. A motorcycle glove has one job in that half-second, and the little label inside the cuff tells you how seriously it was built for it.
This guide breaks down what EN 13594 actually certifies, what Level 1, Level 2 and the KP marking mean, and which construction details matter beyond the sticker. No crash dummies, no lab of our own. Just the standard, what manufacturers publish about their gloves, and our opinion on where your money should go.
What does EN 13594 actually certify?
EN 13594:2015 is the European standard for motorcyclists' protective gloves. A glove sold as motorcycle protective equipment in Europe has to be certified to it, and the label tells you which level it reached.
According to SATRA, one of the labs that tests to this standard, the checklist covers harmful substances in the materials, ergonomics (can you still work the levers), cuff length, restraint (does the glove stay on when something pulls it), tear strength, seam strength, cut resistance, impact abrasion on the palm and knuckle impact protection.
The abrasion part is done on a Cambridge-type machine that drags a P120 grit belt across palm samples and measures how long the material survives before wearing through. It's a repeatable lab simulation of a slide. It is not a promise about your specific crash, your specific speed or your specific pavement.
What is the difference between Level 1 and Level 2?
Level 2 is the tougher tier. SATRA describes Level 1 as protection with low ergonomic penalties, while Level 2 gives more protection and may cost you some weight and flexibility.
The concrete differences listed by SATRA:
- Restraint: a Level 1 glove must resist being pulled off up to 25 N, a Level 2 glove up to 50 N.
- Cuff length: at least 5 mm past the wrist line for Level 1, at least 50 mm for Level 2.
- Cut resistance: Level 1 only tests palm materials, Level 2 tests all materials except the fourchettes (the strips between the fingers).
- Knuckle impact: optional at Level 1, mandatory at Level 2.
Ultimate Motorcycling's breakdown of the standard also lists stricter seam strength, tear strength and abrasion-time requirements at Level 2. Same test, higher bar.
Here's the part that surprises people: plenty of serious race gloves are Level 1. Alpinestars lists its GP Pro R4, a kangaroo-palm race gauntlet with palm sliders and a finger bridge, as "Category II EN 13594:2015, Level 1 KP." Level 1 doesn't automatically mean flimsy. It means the glove didn't certify at the higher tier, and that's information to weigh, not a death sentence.
What does KP mean on a glove label?
KP means the knuckle protection was tested and passed the standard's impact test. Without it, that hard shell over your knuckles might be there for looks.
Because the knuckle test is optional at Level 1, a Level 1 glove can carry knuckle armour that was never certified. "Level 1 KP" means the knuckles were tested. "Level 1" alone means you should treat the knuckle bump as decoration until the maker says otherwise. At Level 2 the test is mandatory, so you'll normally see "Level 2 KP."
Two real examples from the same brand: Alpinestars lists the SP-8 v3, a mid-priced sport gauntlet, as EN 13594 2015 Level 1 KP, and its GP Tech v2 race glove as CE Level 2 KP.
How do I read the label on a motorcycle glove?
Look inside the cuff for the CE mark, the motorcycle pictogram, "EN 13594:2015", the level number and, if the knuckles were tested, "KP." If any of that is missing, ask questions before you pay.
Watch the weasel wording. "CE armour" or "CE-approved knuckle protector" on a product page is not the same as a certified glove. A protector certified on its own tells you nothing about the leather, the seams or whether the glove stays on your hand.
North America is the Wild West here. In the US, only helmets are regulated for motorcyclists, through FMVSS 218, so gloves don't need any certification to be sold. In Quebec, the SAAQ recommends motorcycle-specific gloves that fit well, stay supple and have adjustable wrist straps, but the label check is on you.
What should I look for beyond the certification?
Certification is the floor, not the ceiling. Once a glove passes, the details below decide how it behaves when things go sideways.
Palm sliders and scaphoid protection
The scaphoid is a small wrist bone at the base of the thumb, and falling on an outstretched hand is the classic way to break it. Ultimate Motorcycling's explainer on Knox's system describes the problem: a leather palm grabs the road, the hand stops, the body keeps going, and the wrist gets compressed or bent backwards. It's also a slow, miserable bone to heal.
The fix is a hard, low-friction slider on the heel of the palm so the hand skates instead of grabbing. Knox calls its version the Scaphoid Protection System and uses it on gloves like the Handroid Pod MK5. Alpinestars puts palm and finger sliders on the GP Pro R4. Note that sliders aren't a separate line item in SATRA's EN 13594 test list, so a glove can pass without them. We wouldn't buy a street glove without one.
Materials
Kangaroo leather shows up on the palms of high-end gloves because it's thin and has a reputation for strength relative to its thickness. The GP Pro R4 and GP Tech v2 use it on the palm, and Knox lists a 0.8 mm kangaroo palm on the Handroid Pod MK5. Goatskin is supple and common on mid-range gloves, cowhide is thicker and stiffer.
Textile gloves breathe better and are easier to waterproof, but check the certification as carefully as you would on leather. A cool-looking mesh glove with no EN 13594 marking is a fashion accessory.
Closure, fit and finger bridges
The restraint test exists because a glove that flies off mid-slide protects nothing. Good gauntlets close at the wrist and at the cuff, and Knox uses a BOA dial on the Handroid Pod. Whatever the system, the glove shouldn't slide off when you pull hard on the fingertips with the closures done up.
Fit should be snug with no loose material bunching in the palm, and your fingertips should just reach the end when your hand is curled around a grip. Race gloves often add a finger bridge linking the third and fourth fingers, which Alpinestars says helps prevent finger roll and separation in a slide.
Which glove type fits my riding style?
Match the glove to what you're likely to crash into, not what looks good on the bar. Here's how we'd sort it, with list prices at the time of writing (they vary by retailer and colourway).
- Track and fast sport riding: a full gauntlet, ideally Level 2 KP, with palm sliders and a finger bridge. The Alpinestars GP Tech v2 is listed around $435 USD on Alpinestars' US site.
- Street sport and sport touring: Level 1 KP minimum, a palm slider and a cuff that overlaps your jacket sleeve. The SP-8 v3 lists around $170 CAD on Alpinestars Canada.
- Urban short-cuff gloves: tuck them under the jacket sleeve so no skin shows. Short gloves can reach Level 2 if the cuff extends 50 mm past the wrist line, so check the level rather than assuming. The Knox Handroid Pod MK5 is listed as CE certified to EN 13594 with SPS and a BOA closure, around $310 at RevZilla.
- Winter and waterproof touring: bulkier gloves with a membrane. Make sure the certification applies to that exact model, not just the summer version.
- Dirt and adventure: off-road gloves are often built light for feel, so check whether they're certified at all. If your adventure rides include long highway stretches, bring a road-rated pair too.
How long do motorcycle gloves last?
There's no honest universal number. How long a pair lasts depends on mileage, weather, sweat, how you store them and whether they've already met the asphalt.
Watch these wear points: the throttle-hand palm, stitching at the fingertips and between thumb and index finger, hook-and-loop tabs that stop gripping, and leather that turns dry and cracked. Montreal riders get a bonus round of rain, road salt and spring grit, so dry wet gloves at room temperature, away from the heater, and condition the leather now and then.
After a slide, inspect them hard. If the slider is ground down, the stitching is frayed or the palm leather has thinned, retire them. The same goes for a knuckle shell that took a real hit. Gloves are cheaper than hand surgery.
So what would we actually buy?
For the street, we'd want at least EN 13594 Level 1 KP, a palm slider, two closures and a fit that disappears on the bars. For track days, Level 2 KP, full gauntlet, finger bridge, no debate.
Fit beats brand every time. A Level 2 glove that's too big can twist on your hand in a slide. Try gloves on with the jacket you actually wear, check how the cuff and sleeve overlap, and read the label before the price tag.
Gloves are only one piece of the kit. If you're building a full setup, read our breakdown of motorcycle armour levels, our take on Sidi vs Alpinestars boots, and our women's motorcycle gear guide if standard men's sizing never fit your hands.
New to safety labels? Start with our guide: Motorcycle Gear Safety Ratings Explained.
Editor's note: this article was rewritten in October 2026. An earlier version described product tests GothRider Magazine never ran. Ratings and specifications now come from the manufacturers and independent testing bodies linked above.
